Fiesta of Santa Eulalia 8th December 09 - Totana, Murcia

So it’s just over a week to the big day. Not managed to do any Christmas preparation yet, not sure if that’s because we’ve been too busy or because it’s only just dawned on us there’s only a week to go.
I was speaking with my Spanish neighbour at the weekend and when I asked her if she was ready for Christmas, she looked at me as if I was speaking Chinese (I know my Spanish isn’t perfect….) She really didn’t get the question. Christmas i.e. the 25th December really is not a big thing here. The important dates are the 6th December Dia de la Constitution (when Spains constitution was signed following the demise of Franco),  8th December Dia de la Immaculate, when, here in Totana, the statue of the patron saint - Santa Eulalie - is brought down from the Monesterio Santa Eulalia to the town, 6th January The Three Kings and the 7th January  (locally in Totana) When the patron saint is carried back to the Monesterio Santa Eulalia.

So last week having two fiesta’s in it was a major event here in Spain. Locally many shops were closed for the week. YES, the whole week, in December! The carrying down of the patron saint was a  real spectacle. Most of the town had turned out to watch and indeed follow the statue on it’s 8km route down hill from the Monesterio. The whole event started early with churro’s (a doughnut like batter, in sticks) and chocolate melted and served in a cup……lovely if a little dangerous on the hips! Still 7km to go. The procession eventually started and all the participants and various small groups of musicians set off down hill. Several hrs later…….three…….the procession   halted about two km outside the town the lady Eulalia was rested on a plinth and as more people gathered Firecrackers were lit in an area adjoining the road much to the joy of the several thousand people watching, we then all set off again for the final push to the church of San Roque, groups of musicians still cheerfully playing amid plenty of chatter from the many followers. Finally once the statue had entered the church the participants dispersed to eat drink and be merry for the rest of the afternoon with family and friends and prepare themselves for the return trip on the 8th January………..which is ALL UP HILL!

To find out more about walking in the Sierra Espuna, Murcia and visiting this beautiful area of Spain visit www.vistaverdetrails.com

Calblanque natural Park

An African Bee Eater, what colour!





Sorry, it’s been a while since my last post………..we have been keeping very busy!
The weather here is still pretty warm, in fact apart from the torrential rain we had in September for a day or two you’d almost believe it was still summer (well maybe not quite that hot!), very pleasant.
So what have we been up too, well, a little coastal walking as well as the mountains.
There is an area near the La Manga coast called calblanque, a beautiful natural park with stunning views of the hillside and the La Manga strip which divides the Mar Menor (little sea) from the Mediterranean sea.
At this time of the year it is truly quiet, most of the beach visitors having gone back to there city lives until the heat of the sun returns, and beautiful.
There are lots of opportunities to discover the wildlife, the area has been a designated nature reserve since 1992, making it safe from the building boom that has affected many parts of this coast. The park has a variety of wildlife including woodpeckers, eagles, rare eagle-owls - known as Bonelli's eagle. Unfortunately we didn't see any of those on this trip, but above is an African bee eater we caught sight of.
It is also possible to see the remaining evidence of the areas past history in mining - copper, tin and silver although it is not advisable to stray too close to the shafts as the remain unprotected and open. For a few weeks in the summer, in the town of La Union, they open the mine works to the public. Very interesting.
After getting your fill of fresh air and exercise you can adjourn to Los Balones, a busy little village, for a pint and a bite to eat or maybe pop up to La Manga club and do some celebrity spotting or you could just pop along to one of the many golden sandy coves with a good book and enjoy some quiet time.
Next time I’ll tell you about a walk from Alhama de Murcia, a town on the edge of the Sierra Espuna full of history overlooked by the remains of an Arab castle built during the 12th century.
You can find out more about our walking holidays by visiting our website www.vistaverdetrails.com

Feria Feria everywhere

Feria, Feria everywhere!
We have dried out now after the torrential rain at the end of September. The blue skies have returned and those cooler temperatures seem to have risen again to the closer to the late 20’s centigrade. No complaints here!
Walking is much more pleasant than throughout the summer months and it’s been a joy to get back to some physical activity that isn’t swimming! My cousin is coming over to Spain at the end of November to run in the Benidorm half marathon, Paul was hoping to join her. Unfortunately a bad cold that passed to his chest has put paid to valuable training days….still I’m sure he’ll be ready in time. I’ll keep you posted.
For all those coming to see wildlife in the Sierra Espuna, there was a rare treat just recently, and you didn’t even have to get your walking shoes on! A vulture was spotted circling in Totana. He didn’t stay too long as the crowd grew to watch him he flew off in the direction of Africa presumably returning from his summer holiday. What a sight! Certainly, back in the Sierra Espuna , there has been more evidence of the wild boar following the rain, obviously the looser earth more preferable for rooting.
Elsewhere it’s been a busy couple of weeks, Fiestas called Ferias have taken place in both Lorca and Alhama de Murcia, both towns are just a short drive/train ride from Totana. The Feria’s are more traditional than many of the fiestas, they have a craft feel to them and celebrate the end of summer. They take the format of many similar events around the country. A central religious day, which is where it all stems from, then a folk festival, music, and a feria de dia which has food and entertainment every evening.
They are generally very well attended by locals and visitors alike and a very good way to see a slice of Spanish life.
There have also been lots of artisan markets taking place locally. These include local produce and locally made goods such as textile, pottery and embroidery. The area surrounding the Sierra Espuna is well known for it’s crafts and many old techniques are still used in today’s production. Renowned products are rugs, throws, bedspreads, earthenware pots, bowls, embroidery in wool, silk and gold - magnificently displayed in many of the regions Easter parades.
As well as the Feria’s and markets there are still plenty of music, theatre and cultural events taking place across the region. Many of these events are free so an ideal way to send the evening after a days walking in the mountains.
You can find out more about Totana and the surrounding areas on our website www.vistaverdetrails.com we look forward to seeing you here.

September, sunshine & showers

So Summer is over! in the last two weeks it’s been noticeably cooler………..thank you, much more pleasant for walking! But along with the cooler weather came rain, and boy did it RAIN! In the Murcia region figures of between 35 and 80 litres of water per sm fell in an hour. At the Leahy’s hacienda, we had our fair share. In all the time we have lived here and Paul says in all the places he’s visited (and he’s been to a few) we have never seen rain like it. It caused some havoc with the newly laid camino (the council re-laid it mid August). The Rambla below our house which is dry was for an hour or two at least a raging torrent. Mud and water were the order of the week.
Walking was suspended for only the shortest of time allowing a break to enjoy some of the other treats Murcia can offer. A days shopping at La Noria artisan shopping centre, a good mix of old and new, a days pampering at the Spa, or maybe a visit to the roman baths in Alhama de Murcia followed by a leisurely menu del dia. .
Then, as is in Spain, no sooner was the rain over and the blue sky returned and the sun shone with temperatures returning to a very comfortable 25°+. The effect of the rain was to make the whole place seem more lush, the trees seem to have sucked in the water and are standing taller, greener and lest wilt like, if you get my drift. All this makes the walks in the Espuna seem different………….flowers look more vibrant and wildlife appears energised.
A lovely walk we took recently, started from the ‘Casa Forestal Morti’ along the Camino del Algarrobas’ (trail of the carob trees) we climbed steadily and easily through the trees on a lovely walking surface. The
walk wends it’s way up a wide forest camino right on the edge of the Espuna Regional Park, with stunning views. Eventually we cleared the trees and the vista’s opened up to the head of the wide valley and the abandoned hamlet of Algarrobo. After taking time out at Algarrobo to enjoy the views back down the valley the path crosses the ’Collado de las Chaparras opening up the views down into the historically important Guadelentin Valley, much fought over by the Christians and Muslims. Beyond the Guadalentin the vista stretches to Mazzarron and the Mediterranean Sea .
The excellent path winds it’s way around the hills until reaching the Collado de la Zarza (pass of the brambles) fortunately nowadays cleared and easily navigable. From here starts the descent and gives new and equally impressive views out over the lands behind the medieval village of Aledo towards the Sierra de Pedro Ponce (pronounced ‘Pontheh’ fortunately for Pedro) We finished our descent along a leafy valley with views of the old monastery before arriving back at the casa forestal. An excellent day.
For more information on other things to do if you get caught in the rain in Spain visit our website at www.visterverdetrails.com/otherstuff

La Vuelta

This week La Vuelta (cycle tour of Spain) came to the sierra espuna. What a spectacle!
This section Murcia to Caravaca de la Cruz is the half way point of the race. The riders set off from  Murcia city, en route to climb the Collado Bermejo which, with its 17 kilometers and 5.3% average gradient, is the most important mountain pass in the whole of the Murcia Region. The region has hosted La Vuelta on 25 previous occasions, but this is only the second time Caravaca de la Cruz has staged the finish.
We set of an hour before they were due to arrive to make for what we thought would be a good place to watch, a resturante…….bit of cake and a drink while we wait! Great idea……you’d think, only this is Spain and in very Spanish style, on a day when more people than normal, surely,  would be in the national park to see the riders thunder by, the resturante was, yes you guessed it CLOSED! Still, it did not dampen our spirits and we hiked on up the mountain road a little further to get a better view.
I’ve never been to a cycle race before, so was amazed to see just how many cars and people it took to support the 200 or so riders. As we waited we must have seen at least 20 Guarda Civil (police) vehicles pass, all with at least 3 officers in (most had 4!) . Another dozen or so Civil motorbikes. One ambulance and 10 or so race sponsor/official cars……and all this before the riders had passed.
Then they came first were 2 breakaway groups, the second of these was just 2 cyclists who were chatting to each other like they were on a Sunday afternoon club ride! Then came the peleton some 2/3 minutes behind. They passed like a snake trying to escape after you’ve lifted a rock he was hiding under. They were being chased by another mass of cars and motorbikes. Police, ambulances, team cars. Before you knew it, it was all over for Murcia for another year at least.
As we made our way back down the mountain road to the car we kept our eyes open for souvenir water bottles which may have been discarded……….but no luck there. Later in the after noon we watched the stage finish on the TV, the 2 breakaways had been caught by the peleton and the stage was finally won by Tyler Farrar (team Garmin) in 5: 11:10.
For more info on La vuelta visit www.lavuelta.com or check out my view of the peleton at   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yKEFoDJec8o

Summer's almost over

Paul & Ritchie, all set for takeoff!

So it’s almost September. The mass of fiesta’s which dominate the social calendar in Spain during August are coming to an end. The highlights for us were the fantastic night of music in the main square in Totana, the very amusing (if a little in poor taste) Michael Jackson tribute at the Carivete fiesta, showing my cousin some local colour at the San Roque fiesta, being included in our neighbours family celebrations on Dia de Santa Domingo along with our friends who were staying that week (a fabulous gesture) and finally the booming fireworks at the close of the Aledo fiesta. It’s not quite all over yet though, we still have the Fiesta de la Huerta coming up in early September, always a good selection of music for people to make there own “shapes” to on the now extended terrace/dance floor in front of the attractive ermita (small community church).
Other events that we enjoyed, in what has been a marvelous summer, were being told by some friends visiting that we were the highlight of their holiday having visited for two nights from (in their words) “the ghetto” (an urbanization they had rented an apartment on in the north of the Costa Blanca) and  this was despite the fact our dog chewed a pair of their crocs! Beating Jo with a giant cotton bud in the pool whilst balancing on a crocodile. A very civilized dinner at the Monesterio de Santa Eulalia - Thanks Bill & Sally. Ritchie’s face when he got back from a flight in Paul’s micro light - priceless.
Now it is almost cool enough to get those walking boots back out of the cupboard and dust them off. Paul has already been up in the Sierra Espuna and Sierra de Tercia looking out for new routes and getting in shape for the new walking season.
We plan to be in the Sierra Espuna on the 9th September for the passing of “La Vuelta” , the cycling tour of Spain. On this day, stage 11 starts in Murcia and makes its way to Caravaca de la Cruz traveling through the Sierra Espuna. Hopefully the magnificent spectacle of the peleton flashing by will be able to be enjoyed whilst taking a coffee or maybe a “menu del dia” at the bar “Los Donceles” in the regional park. (more information on la Vuelta can be found at www.lavuelta.com)
I’m hoping this blog is giving you a flavour of life here in Spain and inspiring you to book that walking holiday and come and join us for a week or two!! You can find out more information on our excellent value walking holidays at www.vistaverdetrails.com

The Guns of Navarrone

The Guns of navarrone

This week we walked to the east of the town of Mazzaron, following the coast toward Cartegena and into the Sierra Muela. It’s a beautiful area, each time we have been there with the exception of this last trip, we have barely seen a sole either walking or at the fabulous guns. Let me start with the guns. you don’t have to be a walker to get there. You could take the car, the road is quite windy and single carriage in places, but due to the lack of other vehicles we have never found access a problem.
For over 500 years the defence of Cartegena has been a preoccupation for the Spanish Military. The city holds many links to the Spanish Naval fleet and as the Headquarters, warships have become part and parcel of the sights seen in it’s vast natural habour (these days also shared by cruise ships). The habour is flanked by five hills which through time have been used for the defence of the town and habour.
The Guns that you can see today were supplied by a British company “Vickers” in 1925. The new shore batteries were equipuipped with guns of 38.1cm and 15.24cm caliber giving ranges of 35Km and 21Km respectively. Also anti-aircraft guns (also from Vickers) of 10.5cm were deployed with an operational ceiling of 7.000 metres. They were allegedly used in the film “the guns of naverrone” . I’ve not seen it myself, so I’m only repeating what I’ve been told!
Enough technical stuff, basically they are a sight to be seen, despite the mindless graffiti that the Spanish still seem to be suffering from and the lack of any real attempt at conservation, they are just marvelous. Inside the watch towers, you can still see the silhouettes of British warships painted to aid identification of hostile forces ( now it should be lad & layettes in short skirts & baseball caps!).
The castle like structure that surrounds the Guns is almost fairytale like, it was built to imitate a medieval castle hence the name “Los Castollitos”.
Away from the guns the scenery is truly spectacular. Walking although strenuous at times due to the height loss/gain is not difficult as the paths are well defined. We were walking with a group organized by the
Mazzaron Tourist office, something they do each August. (Last year over 4000 people took part in one of their many guided walks during the month). This walk, as most are due to the heat in summer was an evening walk. It followed a lovely trail through two valleys, towards the Cala Cerrada, an isolated cove, which can only be reached by foot or by boat. Due to the time of year it was quite busy when our party arrived and definitely more busy when we all arrived, but not as busy as Bournemouth beach on a hot day in August.
On arrival at the cove, many donned their swimmies (some had even brought flippers and snorkels ) and took the opportunity to cool down, others just relaxed on the pebble beach and took some light refreshment. All very relaxing.
The climb back up to the Castillitos was a little more strenuous, but the group was on good form and joking and chatting were order of the day. We arrived back at the car at about 9:30pm, just as the light was fading. Definitely a great way to spend an evening, of course most of the Spanish participants then returned to their accommodations to change and go for dinner before the nights entertainment really started…………..the Brits amongst the group, well like us they probably returned home to bed!